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Many of the French provincial courses have a very
appealing setting or pleasant vista. Early experiences are that the French are
very protective of these things and are not keen to have them spoiled by people
actually attending. Fontainebleau is home of the famous palace where Napoleon
would scurry off to as a chance to live in regal splendour and somehow retain
his revolutionary credibility. For this reason it is a fairly
touristy area and the train journey is less than forty minutes from the vast, county-sized expanse of the Gare De
Lyon, to a station optimistically named Fontainebleau-Avon, but is in fact just
in Avon, a fair old stroll from the attractions in Fontainebleau. The France
Galop website also indicates that a "navette gratuite" operates
from Melun station (two stops before Fontainebleau-Avon) on PMU meetings. This
was a PMU meeting. The navette was conspicuous by it's absence. Having gone
first to Fontainebleau, we only discovered this when arriving at the course. And
this is where the location counts. Between Melun and Avon is the large, unbroken
forest of the Bois Du Roi. When the racecourse was built, it was done so in a
clearing in the middle of the Bois Du Roi. At some point someone also had the
idea of a road between Melun and Fontainebleau, rather than having to need a renaissance
Ray Mears to guide racegoers to the meeting. As there is nothing but forest
between the two towns, there is no bus service running along it, just a non-stop
coach service. Eventually we
picked up a cab to the track. This was a problem, as this was an evening meeting
and for our return, despite several cab phone numbers, we were unable to find a
taxi still working at 8.30 in the evening. Enormous thanks to the gateman and
barmen at the track for their efforts in trying to find one that had not gone
into hibernation. They failed, but get 13 out of 10 for effort and
helpfulness.
Plan B was then to walk back to the station -
about four or five kilometres (less than France Galop says it is) but it
involves going over a large hill and down the other side. Two of our party were
able to hitch a lift in a horse box, which dropped them in the town. There, all
cabs and buses had ceased. They stopped a lady in the street to ask for advice,
who implausibly was originally from Wigan, and kindly offered them a lift to the
station. She did suggest that there were no trains due to a strike, but as we
had got one in the morning, there was a good chance of finding one at some
stage, even though
the morning services were not running on their usual two per hour schedule, and
confidence built when a smattering of other optimists ambled into the station as
well.
After a route march that the Foreign Legion would have been proud of, the
survivors made it to the station at 9.50, with a luxury 15 minutes until the
next, and probably last, train back to Paris. Pretty much a normal day for
anyone visiting a rural French track, as those who read the report on Pompadour
may recall, where two of the party missed the only train and got a lift back
to Limoges from the cheese seller at the chateau market. There was nobody lost
to wild boar attacks, drunken hunters who cannot tell the difference between a
deer and a person, nor booby traps set by the tricksters at France Galop.

View from the stand - note the Folkestone-esque lawn
benches - with the last hurdle (left) and last fence (centre).
But what of Fontainebleau itself? Known locally
as Hippodrome de La Solle, it is a great advert for the French funding model.
The stand looks to hold about 400 people (France-Galop say 460, but faith in any
of their information is rapidly eroding), plus room for not many more standing on
the lawn in front of the stand. The stand is vintage, but in good nick, and a
brand new PMU building exists. There is a small bar, but after racing they were
offering a good looking meal option. Starter, paella, dessert, cheese and
biscuits, plus wine for 20 Euros - i.e. the cost of two pints in central Paris. Reservations could be made on the day. It
looked well worth staying around for, if you had a car...
As for the racing surface, there is a flat, a
hurdle, a chase and a cross-country track, set in a sea of white rails, in turn
laid out in an oasis in the Bois Du Roi. Everything is spick and span, and for a course with
a practical capacity of under 1,000 and an admission charge of E4.50, finances
and prize money seem to very, very healthy - even the numptiest races were over
E8,000 to the winner on this occasion, and they were very numpty indeed.
Going: Looked good or quicker
Race 1: Prix De La Tillaie, juvenile
filles Hurdle [1m 7.75f]
1: Marina 2:
Reggainight 3: Avene
Winner owned: Louis Duquesne, trained: Nicolas
Bertran de Balanda,
ridden: David Cottin
First prize for this was E9,600, which is quite
a tidy sum when the race is limited to fillies having won less than 3,000 in
their hurdles career. The ten runners had combined for a third, an eighth and
six pulled ups as jumpers, plus no evidence of doing much better on the flat,
and you have to wonder whether one or two British yards are missing a trick in
not competing for decent prizes (E1,900 for fourth here!) where the local
runners are nothing to get excited about. At one stage paddock pick and
favourite Marina seemed as if she would win with a bit in hand, but Reggainight
kept on dourly and ensured that Marina had to be ridden out to be certain of the
win. The alternate selection on looks was Miss Bury, but anyone who opted to
follow her had their expectations radically lowered when she was very slow at
the warm-up hurdle and finished behind her less fancied stablemate Sumerisha.
Avene came out best of the four racing debutantes, but quite what that counts
for is open to question.
Race 2: Prix De Milly, juvenile colts
& geldings Hurdle [1m 7.75f]
1: Deebel Nononito 2:
Lucky Lane 3: Poliglas
Winner owned: Mme Patrick Papot, trained:
Guillaume Macaire, ridden: Jacques Ricou
The same conditions applied here for the male
horses as for the ladies in the opener, but there was less form to be bemused
by. Marcus De La Borie had 96P, Poliglas had PP, Puerto De Baune had P and four
no-shows on the flat, Giorgio 6P and finally Zem had a sole, futile flat
appearance. As expected, one of the seven newcomers was up to the task, and
having travelled up from the south-west from a yard even we in Britain are
familiar with, Deebel Nononito was popular in the betting and hardly gave his
supporters a moment of concern. Lucky Lane, who was one of a trio that looked
especially well beforehand, came out best of the rest. Poliglas and Bonbon Glace
(another newcomer who ended up sixth) both finished quite strongly, the latter
after leading early and then losing his position when the pace quickened on the
second lap. There was an
inexplicable delay at the start of this race, which in the context of a very
early spring evening meeting, had quite a knock-on effect later in the
proceedings.

A lap to go and Poliglas leads
Puerto De Baune, from Marcus De La Borie (7), Lucky Lane (yellow cap) and
Giorgio (12). Deebel Nononito (noseband) heads Tillo (black and white).
Race 3: Prix Du Mont Ussy, AQPS 4 year
old Chase [2m 2f]
1: Star Conti 2: Sweet
Sugar 3: Sophisme
Winner owned: Mme Patrick Papot, trained:
Guillaume Macaire, ridden: David Cottin
Over the whole field, the results achieved in
chases were at best patchy, but four of the eleven had managed a win over
fences, three of them last time out. Star Conti was one of them, and although he
did not travel with great encouragement at many points of the race, he got a
good run up the inner on the final turn and once he was in front, perked up and
eventually had a bit up his sleeve when he crossed the line. It may have been a different
story had Sadoum Ludois, another previous winner, not taken a heavy fall at the
last. Sweet Sugar was the opposite of the winner, cruising through the race but
not finding much for pressure.

Sophisme has a small lead at
the water from Sadoum Ludois and the mostly hidden Star Conti. The sheepskin
friendly devil in mid air is Sulky, and the trio following are Sphinx De Lukka,
Sweet Sugar and Sacree Collonges
Race 4: Prix D'Enghien , four year old
fillies Claiming Hurdle [2m 1.75f]
1: Waleronne 2:
Shinaway 3: Shendor Blue
Winner owned & trained: Robert Collet, ridden:
Alexis Poirier
The claiming prices for this ranged from 6,000
to 10,000 Euros, but they were still chasing a first prize of over E,8,000 and
even fourth nabbed a four figure sum. A British equivalent would see first prize
comparable to the fourth prize here, and however enthused an observer may be
with French jumping, it is hard to argue that what was almost a maiden claiming
hurdle (only horses who had prevailed above claiming level were excluded from
running) would take much winning. From
the form amassed to date, completions were rare and places at a premium,
although two of the runners had managed to sneak a hurdle win before this. The
field quickly got strung out, and when they settled down for the outcome,
Waleronne looked set to win easily, but a mistake at the last meant she did need
a bit of effort from the saddle to make sure. Having been bred by R Jesus, she
must we worth trying in chases, as the water jump at least should prove no
problem. Shinaway showed plenty of heart, if not much pace, and might be an
interesting recruit in the UK, where she would be potentially suited to long
distance hurdles that are rarely seen in France. Ominously for the majority,
Shendor Blue, with hurdle form of FP03F, made up a trio that finished
comfortably clear of the masses. The jolly was Lilly Gold, ridden by Philip
Carberry. Initially at the rear of a well scattered field, she made some
progress with half a mile to go, but it was under pressure and proved incapable
of making up the large amount of ground conceded. Not one for the rider's
seasonal highlight DVD.
Race 5: Prix De Nemours Chase [2m 3.25f]
1: Key Moon 2: Poisson
Rose 3: Roch D'Emeraude
Winner owned: Fabrice Butez, trained: Jehan Bertran
de Balanda, ridden: Boris Chameraud
The conditions for this over-taxed my
linguistic skills, but seemed to indicate that they excluded those that had done well in
PMU meeting chases since this time last year. The race suffered a long delay as
one runner went lame going to post and required attendance from the vet and
horse ambulance. As it was second favourite at the time, the withdrawal left
Mundo, trained by Thierry Doumen, as a short priced favourite, but he failed to
raise his game, and having been bang in contention four out, weakened quickly
and was pulled up before the next. Turning for home, Key Moon, who had been slowly away in a
ragged start, had the lead but was headed at the last by Poisson Rose. When push
came to shove, however, Key Moon waxed as Poisson Rose slightly floundered. Even
in French racing, they make room occasionally for terrible English puns.

Water jump a lap out and
Poisson Rose leads (in no aspects pink), from Mundo, Leon Du Charmil, Roch
D'Emeraude (5) and Tamarra. Apologies to Key Moon for underestimating him at
halfway.
Race 6: Prix Barbizon, Claiming Hurdle
[2m 4.25f]
1: Kaline De Nuit 2:
Comte D'Anjou 3: Saga Family
Winner owned & trained: A Le Clerc, ridden:
Kevin Guignon
Riders whose career wins totalled less than
thirty-five claimed a very handy nine pounds for this race, so they were on
board seven of the eleven runners. This posed a challenge for the starter, whose
job was to get racing going quickly to try and catch up the earlier delays
before the light went. After taking the warm-up obstacle, the field crossed the
finishing track and the hurdle track, then cut along the chase track to the
start in front of the stands. Instead of extended milling about evident in
previous heats, as soon as they
arrived, the tapes went back and the field were off before they could get
themselves in any form of confusion. Being a low grade claimer,
the runners were quite scattered a long way out, and the first trio home were
well clear of the others. Three out Comte D'Anjou was all over the winner, but
he did not get home and Kaline De Nuit, a 2009 hurdle winner having his second
run this season, outlasted both he and Saga Family, whose form in 2010 was a rather off
putting P05PP.

Great delight in success for
Kaline De Nuit and Monsieur Guignon
Race 7: Prix De Provins, mares Hurdle [2m
4.25f]
1: Zuckerpuppe 2: Quita 3:
Lucky One
Winner owned: Stall XY, trained: Mrs Erika Mader, ridden:
Jan-Erik Neuroth
After a similarly frenetic start, including a
false one, where the starter yelling at the jockeys like a nutter had no effect,
there was again only three horses in contention coming to the final flight, and
once Lucky One cracked, Zuckerpuppe, a raider from Germany, was left to be just that
slightly more strong in a finish than Quita, who had won a chase and a hurdle
already this year. Connections of the winner
were riotously delighted - and a E9,120 first prize must have helped that - and
I was less impressed that having observed that this was the one chance to follow
Plumpton form, my own advice was ignored by myself and a 69/1 winner
went begging. It does put a context on the standard of horse needed to
challenge for the money on offer.
It was a failure of attempted consolation to
return home and check exactly what Zuckerpuppe had done since the British run a
year earlier (nothing was the answer), only for curiosity to reveal that whilst Zhukov, who beat her a head, had not run
since, 26 length third Blacktoft had won twice, the fourth and fifth had been
placed and the horse that fell two out when narrowly leading her and Zhukov was the
very decent King Edmund. D'oh! And double D'Oh!
Race 8: Prix Colonel Marlin, amateur
riders cross-country Chase
1: Lost Steps 2:
Toutonne 3: Momontano
Winner owned: Ecurie Des Dunes, trained: Patrice
Quinton, ridden: Patrick Pailhes
With night closing in, the runners for the
finale were out and at the start before the earlier runners had managed
time to even unsaddle. The course layout for this was a sort of skew-whiff
double helix. The first lap was fairly uneventful, but after one horse unseated
turning away from the straight (largely unnoticed, and the jockey was prostrate
on the floor for some while before the medics found him) and another couple
departed ascending a bank, the second possibly hampered, the field had been
somewhat pruned. As they turned towards the finish, four runners were in a duel (is that quartel?) for the finish. Both Lost Steps and Toutonne are
regularly placed in these races and stayed on strongest, but Momontano who won a couple last year - plus
fell a couple of times - looked as if this first run of 2010 would bring him
on.
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